A ceiling fixture which operates off a change when you enter a room is a convenient means to light a room. Adding a ceiling fixture where none existed before involves bringing power to a wall switch and wiring from the wall switch to the ceiling fixture for the lighting. The most common method requires tapping into an present socket to supply power to the fixture.

Construction

Select the outlet closest the new switch location, on precisely the same wall, and turn off the power to it in the circuit breaker. Bring the no-contact voltage tester near the socket to be sure it’s off. Remove the socket cover and receptacle by removing the screws with a screwdriver, but leave the wiring attached. Remove a circular knockout from the face of the electrical box by setting a screwdriver against it and hitting the screwdriver with a hammer.

Find each stud between the socket and the switch location with the stud finder. Cut a tiny hole in the drywall next to each stud with the jab drill and saw a 3/4-inch hole with a spade piece through every stud. From the attic area, drill through the wall into the wall cavity with the 1/2-inch spade bit.

Cut openings out for the change electrical box along with the fixture electrical box at the drywall exactly the same dimensions as the boxes. Pick the location for the ceiling fixture next to a rafter. Remove a knockout from the electrical boxes for every cable and put in sheathed cable clamps from the holes. Fasten the boxes to the stud and rafter with roofing nails.

Feed sheathed cable from the present wall socket box, through the holes drilled into the studs, to the new switch box. Feed more sheathed cable from the new switch box upward through the ceiling and above to the brand new fixture box. Leave about 10 inches of extra cable at each end. Tighten the cable clamps only enough to hold the cable firmly in place.

Wire Connections

Strip 8 inches of sheathing from the cable at each end with the cable/wire stripper. Remove the paper wrap from the bare ground cable. Strip off 3/4 inches of insulation from each wire at all four finishes.

Twist the bare copper ground cable with the present bare copper ground, employing the lineman’s pliers in the socket, and attach them to the green ground screw. Twist both bare aluminum cables together in the switch box and then hook to the green ground screw on the new button. Twist both white wires together in the brand new switch box and cap with a wire nut.

Twist the white and black cable ends to a clockwise loop with the long-nose pliers in the present socket. Attach the wires. Match up the new white cable to the present white cable side; the black wire goes to the same side as the present black cable. Fold the wires behind the receptacle and push the receptacle back into the box. Fasten the receptacle to the box with the screws and replace the cap.

Twist the endings of both black wires into clockwise loops in the switch. Place the loops onto the switch terminal screws so the loops are clockwise, and then tighten the screws. Fold the wires behind the switch and set the switch to the box. Fasten the switch to the box with the provided screws and put in a switch cover plate.

Connect the white cable wire to the white fixture cable and the black wire to the black fixture wire. Cap the connections with wire nuts. Fasten the fixture to the brand new fixture box in line with the manufacturer’s directions. Insert bulbs and turn the power to the circuit breaker to check the brand new fixture and change.

Place a small piece of plaster lath behind every cutout from the drywall and secure it to the drywall with drywall screws. Fill the opening with premix drywall compound and allow to harden overnight. Insert a coating of Spackle and allow it to dry. Sand smooth, prime and paint to finish the project.

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