Category: Eclectic Homes

If your floor is oak, maple or a different light to medium-light hardwood, you may opt to make it darker by staining it — and a lot of people do. A dark floor provides visual grounding in a room with light walls and a light ceiling. On the flip side, a color closer to the natural wood color may better match your room’s decor. Floor color is the choice, and it should be an informed one.

Stain Options Depend on the Wood

You can’t lighten flooring that’s already naturally dark without resorting to drastic measures, like bleaching. Deep, rich hardwoods — like walnut, mahogany or Brazilian cherry — look attractive with no stain, but if you need to hide defects, the stain should be darker than the wood. Lighter forests, however, like oak, can look attractive with a light stain or a dark one. You may use the stain to darken the floor or to change the hue. You may also utilize a whitewash stain to make the wood even lighter.

Dark Floors Are more difficult to Keep Clean

If cleaning floors isn’t your favorite usage of time, remember that dark hardwood floors are harder to keep clean than light ones; that is mostly a result of the way that dark stain reflects light. The propensity of dark stains to highlight defects also makes little scratches and scrapes more visible than they would be on a light floor. This is especially true if the stain is dark enough to provide the floor a mainly uniform color. A semigloss sheen increases the reflectivity and further highlights little imperfections, whereas a satin sheen mutes the effect.

Dark Colours Hide Problems

When you’re refinishing a well-used hardwood floor, the capability of a dark stain to mask major defects may outweigh its propensity to highlight small surface issues. Even though you can lighten dark water stains by bleaching them, often it takes a dark surface color to hide them completely. A dark stain may also create uniformity within an older floor that has endured gaps brought on by dry air. Filler colors are infrequently an exact match for the wood they’re designed for, and a dark stain mitigates the unsightly contrast. A dark stain may also hide fading caused by sunlight exposure.

Visual Coordination

In case you’ve got a brand new floor of light-colored wood, the question of whether to darken it becomes one of color coordination. In general, a light-colored floor attracts more attention than a dark one and, because the wood grain is visible, the floor may clash with other features within the room. Lightness isn’t always a bad thing; it may be a virtue if you want to produce a frosty impact with blond cabinets and light walls. A dark floor, on the other hand, produces the visual perception of earth beneath your feet, which your eye may interpret into a feeling of security. That could assist a room feel relaxing.

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FHA loans are house mortgages insured by programs supplied by the Federal Housing Administration (FHA). The rates for FHA mortgages will be similar to conforming rates for lenders such as Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. The Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) site provides historic rate data on FHA-insured 30-year fixed-rate mortgages going back to 1992.

Identification

There are several different kinds of FHA-insured mortgages. The 30-year fixed-rate mortgage has become the most popular. Also available with FHA insurance are 15-year fixed rate mortgages, 1-year flexible rate mortgages (ARMs) and hybrid mortgages using the initial rate fixed for 3, 5, 7 or 10 years before converting to ARMs. After the 30-year fixed rate, the most commonly quoted rates will be the 15-year fixed, ARM and 5/1 hybrid rates.

History

The HUD site provides a downloadable spreadsheet of yearly and annual average rates for FHA 30-year mortgages. In the very first monthly average in October 1991 until May 2010, the FHA 30-year mortgage rate ranged from a low of 5.21 percent up to a top in 8.28 percent. The highest rate was in the very first month of this report, and the lowest rate was in the last month. Computing some averages in the HUD data shows that FHA mortgages averaged 7.14 percent from the 1990s and 6.15% for the first decade of the 21st century.

Resources

The hottest average rates for several kinds of mortgage products can be obtained in the Mortgage Bankers Association weekly poll as well as the Bank Rate interest rate roundup. These reports provide the averages across the United States for mortgage rates such as the 30-year and 15-year fixed rate, 5/1 hybrid mortgages and ARMs. The rates for FHA loans will mirror these national average mortgage rates.

Considerations

FHA-insured mortgages have some limitations and restrictions that influence those loan rates compared to mortgages offered through other programs. FHA loans are assumable and have no prepayment penalties. FHA loans are also offered to borrowers with lower credit scores than other mortgage solutions. These FHA attributes lead to FHA rates which are usually slightly higher than the national average for similar mortgages. In 2009, the average rate for 30-year FHA mortgages reported by HUD was 5.63 percent. Freddie Mac reported a typical mortgage rate of 5.04 percent for the exact same year. For the first five months of 2010, FHA rates averaged 0.30 percent greater than the rates reported by Freddie Mac.

Potential

Using historic data, an estimate to the typical FHA rate are the overall average rates for all mortgages written in the United States plus 0.30 to 0.50 percent. Individual creditors are free to set their own rates and additional costs such as origination fees and discount points. Your knowledge of the current average rate for similar mortgages will allow you to effectively negotiate with your mortgage lender or store different creditors for the best rate in your region.

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Refinance home loans or subprime mortgage products are used to help consumers who have credit buy. Subprime loans are also used by consumers with excellent credit ratings that require flexible underwriting procedures, for example stated income loans, exotic adjustable-rate mortgages and low down payment options. According to the Department of Housing and Urban Development,”Subprime loans have a higher interest rate than prime loans compensate for greater credit risk.” The availability of loans supplies additional choices for consumers.

Create an inventory of your needs for a loan. Purchasing a home or refinancing using a subprime loan might help accomplish your aim ; however, the cost to acquire credit will typically exceed Federal Housing Administration (FHA) interest rates. Using a subprime loan to consolidate your bills may offer monthly savings which warrant an above-market interest rate.

Increase your reserves. Lenders base their operations. Additionally, their customers consist of applicants who pose higher than normal credit risks. Your chance for obtaining a loan approval increases whenever you have liquid assets which may pay two mortgage obligations or more. Possessing the ability to pay six mortgage payments can allow you to qualify for a loan. Liquid reserves that could cover several mortgage obligations will indicate to an underwriter your capacity for making payments in case a hardship happens.

Pay a visit to a home-loan site to compare subprime mortgage lenders. By completing a few basic questions apply for mortgage offers. You will get up to four loan offers to consider. Compare the program offerings and select the lender that’s best for you.

Complete an application to get a subprime loan. Will provide a loan program package for your review and signature. Forward the necessary items such as your income history, credit justification letters and bank statements to your loan officer. Typical underwriting time may take 48 to 72 hours until you get a last loan approval.

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Let’s peep in on a day in the life span of our favourite 1960s ad men. Get ready for March 25, when they come sauntering back to our lives after a too-long hiatus! — Jen from Second City Soiree

jcollector

Japanese Screen Painting, Crane Byobu – $2,495

That assembly in Bertram’s office was nothing short of aggravating. I kept mindlessly staring at all the Japanese art, particularly that new display using the cranes.

Thomas Hayes Gallery

Sergio Rodrigues Rosewood Bar on Casters – $4,500

No matter. It is time to get a beverage. To the bar cart, made from handsome walnut wood!

Studyllc

Georges Briard Old-Fashioned Tumblers – $50

First things first. We are in need of rocks glasses. These gold banded ones will do.

Skjode Skjern Teak Ice Bucket & Tongs – $475

Peggy! Ice! Oh, right. You’re not the secretary anymore. Look, would you please just fill this wooden ice bucket? It even has nice handles so it will be easy to carry.

Material Possessions

Arte Italica Liquor Decanters – $200

And the last component, scotch, poured from a crystal decanter. A man is only as good as his or her decanter — or something like that.

Danish Modern Recliner by Ib Kofod Larsen – $1,450

Drink in hand, let us “brainstorm” while we sit into those Danish recliners.

Thrive Home Furnishings

Modern E2 Office Desk – $1,649

Back to work — need to come up with a brilliant thought. Should be easier while sitting in my brilliant midcentury modern– inspired desk.

White Marble rectangle foundation lamp – $595

Let’s shed a little light on the topic, shall we? The ebony lampshade is a nice contrast to the warm foundation.

Etsy

USB Typewriter Computer Keyboard Royal – $699

Peggy, form a memo. Oh, right, again with not being a secretary piece. Ok, I’ll just use my iPad and this USB keyboard.

Post 27

Color Story Credenza – $2,800

Where were those notes? I know I stashed them into this “color story” credenza. Were they behind the goldenrod door, or even the burnt orange door?

jtbaldwin

Slide Carousel Clock – $65

Wow, look at the time. Why yes, that’s a clock made from a Kodak Carousel Slide Projector. After we won the account, they had been so thankful they gave us 50 of these. What in the world are we going to do with 50 Carousels?

vintageswank

1960s Western Electric Yellow 554 Rotary Wall Telephone – $145

Better phone Betts. This time of day, she’s probably in the kitchen. Great thing I got her nifty wall telephone. The things they think of those days!

The Hip Hostess

Sheath Design Aprons – Merri Mixers – The Hip Hostess – $36

Sigh. Well, Don will be late, as usual. I’m just going to hang out here in my darling small apron.

Etsy

1960s Crystal Table Lighter and Ashtray Set – $29

… And smoke a cigarette using this smart lighter-and-ashtray set. I adore how the crystal dances round the room at sunset.

funkandjunk

Textured Off White Curtains with Bamboo Stalks and Leaves – $135

What’s all that racket in the garden? I’ll just peek out through the kitchen drapes. Sally, stop waving your dad’s hammer around! Honestly, you might chip it, and then he’d be really mad.

vintageswank

Franciscan Heritage 16pc China Dish Set – $155

Sally, Bobby, please place the table. Use the pretty Franciscan Heritage place and don’t drop it, otherwise no Mr. Magoo for you later.

Mercantila

Sandy Wilson Cashmir Fainting Couch

Cooking dinner is indeed tiring. I believe I’ll have a rest in my lovely fainting couch. I don’t care if it doesn’t go with the rest of my living room.

Etsy

Handmade Natural Wood Retro TV Ipad Dock – $60

Bobby, quit pestering me with inquiries and go watch TV. Or see a program in your own iPad, nestled with this TV frame. It is nearly the exact same thing.

Williams-Sonoma

Fairfax Headboard

And so to bed. Don’t you just love my tufted headboard? So comfy when sitting up in bed, reading the Ladies’ Home Journal.

Detroit Garden Works

Nichols Bros.. Hampton Jardiniere – $1,525

I just hope I don’t dream of mommy’s beautiful jardiniere. I just know that pesky sister-in-law of mine has her attention on it.

Next: Ways to Acquire the Mad Men Look

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Many homeowners contact their insurance companies about fallen trees on their property after powerful windstorms. If an uprooted or toppled tree tree lands on your own fence, then it could indicate an expensive repair. If you have homeowners insurance, the damage for your fence and your tree is typically insured. Learning exactly what the insurance coverage covers, under what circumstances and what the broker should process your claim will allow you to be prepared in such a circumstance.

Shops Insurance

Homeowners insurance protects your home against damages to the house, the properties inside and also the structures on the property. If a tree crashes to a fence, then the damage is covered, just as if the tree hit on your roof or broke a window. To obtain money to pay for the expense of this damage, homeowners will need to file a claim with the insurance provider. Homeowners should initially pay the deductible, or the out-of-pocket expense, before the insurance provider pays.

Coverage of Structures

Homeowners insurance typically covers structures on a property contrary to the home, like a detached garage, gazebo, shed or fence. Most policies contain a cap of 10 percent of the covered amount of the house on coverage for these kinds of structures. For example, if a homeowner had $150,000 in coverage for your own house, policy could pay for $15,000 for other structures.

Tree Fence

Generally, an uprooted tree is an act of nature and also cannot be anyone’s fault. Once an act of nature causes a tree to drop on an insured structure, like a fence, then your insurance company might pay to repair the fence up to the cap to the coverage. It might also cover tree removal, typically from $500 to $1,000. It also does not matter whether the tree is owned by the homeowner or if it is from a neighboring property — the insurance still covers the damages to this fence. Most insurance companies set a cap for how much they’ll settle for damages.

File a Claim

Once a homeowner discovers a tree has fallen on a fence, then he must take photos of their damage from several distinct angles. The homeowner shouldn’t try to remove the tree or permit anyone else, like a neighbor, do so before he has gotten images for insurance purposes. These photos are proof for the origin of the damage. Homeowners should contact their insurance agent and file a claim. The insurance company will evaluate the damaged fence, then determine how much it will cover, depending on the damage and any coverage caps, then pay for the repair.

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Frigidaire makes gas and electric dryers with an assortment of features, such as energy-saver functions and steam settings for removing wrinkles. If your dryer does not heat properly, however, you’re likely to wind up with wet clothing and blankets regardless of what additional features it has. Troubleshoot to see if your dryer’s experiencing among the basic issues that make a Frigidaire dryer to not blow heat. Some problems need professional service to get your appliance back up and running.

Fuse Issue

Your dryer may not heat if there’s an issue with its power supply. There are usually two household fuses or circuit breakers in an electric dryer’s circuit. If one blows, the dryer may have the ability to tumble without heating. Check your home’s fuse box or circuit breaker and replace the blown fuse or reset the breaker as vital. When there is not an issue with the fuse box or circuit breaker, your dryer may not have been wired with the proper voltage. Frigidaire electric dryers need 240 volts; gas models need 120 volts. If yours is functioning at a lower-than-recommended voltage, then perhaps it doesn’t heat properly. Contact an electrician to address the matter.

Gas Supply Issue

If you’ve got a gas version, your dryer may not heat if there’s an issue with its gasoline supply. Make sure that the gas shutoff valve is open so gas can flow to the appliance. The valve is situated at the rear of the appliance near the gas inlet pipe. You can tell the valve is open if it is parallel or inline using the pipe. When it is perpendicular to the pipe, the gas supply to this dryer is off. Turn the valve to open it, and allow a couple of minutes so that the gas has time to move through the line, before turning on your dryer. If the valve is open, your natural gas service may be disrupted. Contact your utility company to arrange for service. Once your service is restored, your dryer should heat. If your gasoline comes from the LP gas tank, then ensure it is not empty; replace it if needed.

Temperature Selection

Your dryer may not seem to heat if you have not picked the proper temperature. Frigidaire flashlights have a low-heat setting that’s designed for delicate fabrics and won’t generate sufficient heat for heavier fabrics like denim; several have no-heat air-dry purposes for items which include chlorine, foam rubber, plastics or other rubberlike materials, or even for simply refreshing any merchandise. If you accidentally select the air-dry setting, then your dryer wo not heat. To adjust a cycle’s temperature for appropriate heat, then turn the temperature setting knob to medium or high.

Poor Air Supply

A Frigidaire gas dryer may fail to heat when it is not getting enough air around the dryer, causing the burner flame to go out. Stacking laundry in front of or behind the dryer can cut off its air supply, so keep the area around the appliance free of items which may block its vents. To guarantee an adequate air supply, consult your dryer’s installation instructions to determine the minimum installation clearances around the appliance for proper ventilation; clearances can vary based on the size of the dryer. If you’ve got your dryer in a closet, then your closet door ought to be louvered so air can freely circulate. Clean the dryer’s lint screen before or after each load. Along with being a fire hazard, lint accumulation can result in inefficient drying, making your dryer seem not as hot as it ought to be.

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The MTD motor is utilized in garden gear products. MTD products that have pull rope systems include pulley a pull rope and recoil spring. The spring drains the pull rope back into the housing with spring-action after each pull when you try to start the mower. Time with usage weakens over, and can crack, break or twist, which makes it necessary to replace.

Loosen the rope eyelet keeping wing nut and slide the rope loose slipping it between lawnmower and the eyelet handle bar.

Unscrew the four motor shroud retaining screws in addition to the motor using a Phillips head screwdriver. Unscrew the lawnmower fuel tank fuel cap.

The motor shroud free in the top of the lawnmower engineoptimization. Screw the fuel tank cap onto the fuel tank inlet thread to reduce debris and dirt from getting into the fuel system.

Unscrew the 3 pull start recoil assembly retaining bolts using a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet wrench. Lift the assembly free in the top of the lawnmower engine.

Pull the beginning rope completely from the assembly; clip a spring clamp onto the rope and assembly pulley. Remove the rope knot out of the beginning pulley recess using needle-nosed pliers. Untie the knot or cut the rope below the knot with scissors.

Remove the beginning rope out and from the pulley of the assembly. Publish.

Unscrew the shoulder keeping bolt using a wrench. Lift the shoulder retaining pressure and bolt plate in the pull start rope . Pull strain plate compression spring and the pawls out of the surface of the pulley. Lift the recoil and pulley spring out of the assembly.

Remove the outdated recoil spring in the backside of the spring groove using needle-nosed pliers. Fit the recoil spring recoil 11, hook-end to the pull groove by hand. Apply a light coat of lithium grease using a disposable paintbrush.

Set the pulley rotating it counterclockwise before the spring seats falls into place. Fit the pawl rolled all the pawl and ends together ends facing inward. Set compression spring.

Employ thread locking compound. Twist the bolt. Screw the bolt into the pulley; align the extrusions on the pressure plate together with the pawls that are inside. Torque the bolt between 71 to 89 inch pounds using socket that is 10-millimeter and a torque wrench.

Wind the clockwise until the spring stops; rotate back it counterclockwise one revolution. Align the rope groove together with the recoil assembly rope socket. Clip a spring clamp onto rope and the assembly to hold the place.

Seal the pull rope finish using a lighter to prevent it from fraying. Push the end of the rope to the assembly and throughout the rope groove. Pull the rope from the pulley groove using needle-nosed pliers. Tie a knot at the end of the rope; pull on the rope knot tightly into the pulley recess groove. Unclip the spring clamp to wind the rope.

Pull the rope in the assembly a few times to test for suitable recoil spring operation. When the rope manage sits snugly against the rope 16, the spring is tensioned. Assemble the assembly.

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Stability is job one in a design for a book case that is rolling. The situation shouldn’t be over three shelves tall and should be a tad deeper and wider than you would ordinarily construct for shelving. Steer clear of plywood from the structural portions of the situation and use preferably shelving, boards, to avoid bowing in the center of the shelf. Flange ball moves (see”Resources”) give a smoother”ride” than conventional casters, and therefore are nicer looking to boot.

Use a screw to indicate shelf support points on the boards’ tip. Measuring from 1 end, make marks 3 inches, 27 inches and 15 inches. This is going to be the inside of a side support board where the shirts of your support sticks will line up along with the marks will tell you.

So that you form a ladder of support screw an 8-inch-long sticks every board’s face up. Use three screws per stick.

Place the boards upright, and using a helper to hold them in place, organize a board so that its end is. This is going to become your bottom shelf.

Screw to the the top of the 1-by-2 and through the board’s end sticks both boards, using at least 2 screws. The fledgling bookshelf can now stand by itself.

Working from the reduced shelf secure the other two boards at the same way.

Twist the bookshelf so that the board is flush with the toes of the support boards and set the last 4-foot board. Stability is provided by this board and provides you more area for attaching the chunk moves.

Screw to the support and through the board stick with two screws.

Lay the bookcase down to measure and mark the edge of every support board using a twist. Mark at 19 inches, 7 inches and 31 inches from the bottom.

Lay a from side to side, lined up using the bottom mark, and twist through each end into the edges of the support boards.

Attach at their marks. These boards serve as the backs of the shelves and keep the books if it is moved, from falling out the back of the bookshelf.

Turn the unit on the head of it again and attach the ball moves, following the manufacturer’s instructions to fasten them. Most ball moves will have a base plate using four prefabricated screw holes, but some have two holes along with others, a hole at the center. A number of your screws will be to the bottom ends of the side support boards and the rest will go into the bottom support board.

Sand the unit beginning with the medium-grit sandpaper and completing with all the fine-grit. Sand edges and the corners smooth and make sure all slivers are sanded off.

Paint or stain the bookcase.

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Caulk creates a seal around door and window frames to prevent water and drafts from entering your property. When caulk is used, a little bit of product may get onto your home’s siding, making it appear unsightly. To improve the appearance of your home, take some opportunity to eliminate the dried caulk. If you happen to find wet caulk on the siding, then let it dry before removing it.

Use a putty knife to pry any loose caulk, which should break off of the siding readily. Work the knife under and about the caulk gently to avoid damaging the siding.

Apply a couple drops of caulk remover directly to portion to soften and loosen the item.

Equip a utility knife with a brand new, sharp blade. Create a vertical slice into the softened caulk with the knife, being careful not to cut too heavy. Peel the loose caulk from the siding with your palms.

Remove of caulk from the siding with a pair of pliers. Clamp the pliers’ teeth onto the caulk and pull it off.

Clean residue or any excess caulk off of the siding with a soft, damp cloth.

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A ceiling fixture which operates off a change when you enter a room is a convenient means to light a room. Adding a ceiling fixture where none existed before involves bringing power to a wall switch and wiring from the wall switch to the ceiling fixture for the lighting. The most common method requires tapping into an present socket to supply power to the fixture.

Construction

Select the outlet closest the new switch location, on precisely the same wall, and turn off the power to it in the circuit breaker. Bring the no-contact voltage tester near the socket to be sure it’s off. Remove the socket cover and receptacle by removing the screws with a screwdriver, but leave the wiring attached. Remove a circular knockout from the face of the electrical box by setting a screwdriver against it and hitting the screwdriver with a hammer.

Find each stud between the socket and the switch location with the stud finder. Cut a tiny hole in the drywall next to each stud with the jab drill and saw a 3/4-inch hole with a spade piece through every stud. From the attic area, drill through the wall into the wall cavity with the 1/2-inch spade bit.

Cut openings out for the change electrical box along with the fixture electrical box at the drywall exactly the same dimensions as the boxes. Pick the location for the ceiling fixture next to a rafter. Remove a knockout from the electrical boxes for every cable and put in sheathed cable clamps from the holes. Fasten the boxes to the stud and rafter with roofing nails.

Feed sheathed cable from the present wall socket box, through the holes drilled into the studs, to the new switch box. Feed more sheathed cable from the new switch box upward through the ceiling and above to the brand new fixture box. Leave about 10 inches of extra cable at each end. Tighten the cable clamps only enough to hold the cable firmly in place.

Wire Connections

Strip 8 inches of sheathing from the cable at each end with the cable/wire stripper. Remove the paper wrap from the bare ground cable. Strip off 3/4 inches of insulation from each wire at all four finishes.

Twist the bare copper ground cable with the present bare copper ground, employing the lineman’s pliers in the socket, and attach them to the green ground screw. Twist both bare aluminum cables together in the switch box and then hook to the green ground screw on the new button. Twist both white wires together in the brand new switch box and cap with a wire nut.

Twist the white and black cable ends to a clockwise loop with the long-nose pliers in the present socket. Attach the wires. Match up the new white cable to the present white cable side; the black wire goes to the same side as the present black cable. Fold the wires behind the receptacle and push the receptacle back into the box. Fasten the receptacle to the box with the screws and replace the cap.

Twist the endings of both black wires into clockwise loops in the switch. Place the loops onto the switch terminal screws so the loops are clockwise, and then tighten the screws. Fold the wires behind the switch and set the switch to the box. Fasten the switch to the box with the provided screws and put in a switch cover plate.

Connect the white cable wire to the white fixture cable and the black wire to the black fixture wire. Cap the connections with wire nuts. Fasten the fixture to the brand new fixture box in line with the manufacturer’s directions. Insert bulbs and turn the power to the circuit breaker to check the brand new fixture and change.

Place a small piece of plaster lath behind every cutout from the drywall and secure it to the drywall with drywall screws. Fill the opening with premix drywall compound and allow to harden overnight. Insert a coating of Spackle and allow it to dry. Sand smooth, prime and paint to finish the project.

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